Trip Report: Grand Canyon National Park

The big one. The one "must see" national park. For years I postponed this trip, believing the hype that this was something better seen in books or on television. While it is true, your pictures are not going to rival those in a travel brochure, no picture truly captures the immensity of this wonder.

Arizona Rt-64 North

Route 64 is the main artery used by canyon tourists coming from Flagstaff and other points South. The road is flat and straight, but definitely not boring. Every thirty or so miles you come upon some civilization, be it gas stations, farms, or other points of interest. Together they help one imagine what taking a vacation in the United States must have been like in the 1950s: Long empty stretches of road with only occasional signs of civilization.

Fred's Diner, Rt-64, Williams, AZ

This motif continues up to park's entrance, even the two fast food restaurants don't seem too out of place. The Red Feather Lodge, where I stayed, definitely played to the road trip tune, reminding me of the motels from my childhood roadtrips.

Red Feather Lodge Postcard

Tip:When staying at the Grand Canyon, the best rates are always found outside the park. However be sure to take driving distance into consideration. Valle and Williams are about 45 and 70 minutes away, respectively, whereas Tusayan (and the Red Feather Lodge, among others) is only 5 minutes away.

Nothing can prepare you for the scale of the Grand Canyon. Pictures capture its beauty, but fail in capturing its immensity.

Tip: Don't miss the sights on the Hermit's Rest portion of the rim trail. Although most visitors skip this section, I spent the majority of my time here watching Ravens play in the wind rushing up the cliff sides. For views, Trailview and Pima Point were my favorites and Hopi Point is recommended as THE sunset location.

Paved portion of the Rim Trail on Hermits Rest Route

At night, the canyon's personality changes. There are no sounds of civilization, no light; it's just you, darkness, and on a clear night, stars. More stars than I have ever seen.

On the rim, you see mile upon mile of blackness, only occasionally interrupted by the small light of a campsite or ranger's vehicle. But all is not silent, you occasionally hear the wind, as it slowly whips around the canyon, until it briefly envelops you.

And then slowly, silently, the sky in the west starts to get definition. Equally as slowly, the first tourists of the day start to arrive to great the sun and another day begins.

Spring Solstice Sunrise from Mather Point

Trip Report: White Mountains, NH - Pemigewasset Wilderness

18 Sept 2009.

The plan. The plan was achievable. The plan was to hike the Lincoln Woods Trail to Franconia Falls, swing by Shoal Pond and Thoreau Falls before heading back. Four Days. 26 miles. Under 6.5 miles a day. Easy.

I was hiking with an inexperienced individual who had back surgery less then a year ago. The emphasis was on balancing ease with picturesque. Build an experience that wouldn't tax the system.

(East Branch) Pemigewasset River, Bondcliff in the background

We started out slowly, chatting, stopping to take pictures (like the one above). There was no rush.

Lincoln Woods Trail (after Osseo Trail branch off)

The tenor of the hike changed shortly after the Osseo trail branched off. The breaks became more frequent, the conversation less so.

When we reached the Black Pond Trail and I happily announced our proximity to Franconia Falls. Unfortunately, that distance was to great. Back pain, which had been slowly building, had now reached the point where my companion was concerned about making the trip back to the car. So, 2.6 miles in, the "easy" camping expedition was canceled and efforts were made to ensure a successful return trip (eating, hydrating, and transferring the injured persons pack to the non-injured).

The return trip was quick, despite stopping frequently to rest (and take Pemi pictures), and uneventful. Exactly what you want when a team member is nursing an injury.

White Mountains - Pemigewasset Wilderness

Distance: 5.2 miles
Time: 3 hours 20 minutes 
AMC 4k peaks: N/A

Trip Report: White Mountains, NH - Franconia Ridge Loop

12 Sept 2009.

In preparation for a White Mountain Camping excursion, on the 12th of September, I set off to solo the most popular Franconia Ridge loop: Falling Waters Trail to Little Haystack Mt to Mt. Lincoln to Mt. Lafayette to Greenleaf Trail to the Old Bridle Path. The day was long, about eight and a half hours, but the visuals were stunning.

  The first waterfall on the Falling Waters Trail

Although rain pounded southern New Hampshire and Massachusetts, the skies were clear when I arrived at the White Mountains. However as I ascended Little Haystack Mountain, the clouds started to roll in. So much so, the view from the top of Little Haystack was less then picturesque.

Franconia Ridge Trail, seen from Little Haystack Mt

After resting and eating at Little Haystack's summit, I decided to continue on to Lincoln. The last bit of Falling Waters was extremely steep and far more difficult than I expected. I was slightly concnered, if Falling Waters was the AMC's idea of an easy trail, I wasn't looking forward to meeting a "difficult" one.

I followed the trail blindly, the low clouds obscuring the mountains ahead, in near perfect silence occasionally interrupted by the sound of hiking poles striking rock and then voice.
A tired hiker on Mt. Lincoln
The surrealism cannot be adequately explained. I was hiking on the most popular trail, seeing only 100 yards around, no other people, no sounds of people, silence only interrupted by the sounds I made. And then suddenly (and only occasionally) the dragging sound of hiking poles on rock, a voice or voices, and moments later a figure in the fog.

Rt-93, as seen from the Greenleaf Trail.

White Mountains - Franconia Ridge Album

Distance: 8.5 miles
Time: ~8.5 hours
AMC 4k peaks: Mt. Lincoln, Mt. Lafayette